Thursday, April 23, 2009

Chiapas



Monte Pio to Palenque ruins in Chiapas. 318 miles. 11 hours with a long stop in the Villahermosa Museum.
Took off from las Tuxlas enjoying the jungle that is growing denser around us everyday. Fianlly the traffic was gone. Everyone went home Sunday night. Semana Santa is over. Villahermosa was at first thought intimidating but actually it is a very quick city without much sprawl. And it is a straight line on the highway through it. We stopped at a scary taco stand. No options other than meat in various forms. We were bonking by then. I got two chicken tacos, going to be strong and just eat it without inspecting. One bite difficult but getting used to it, determined. Second bite, i dont know if i can eat all of this. Picked it up for the third bite and the esophogus fell out. Needless to say, i was done. I even noticed that Steve left one of his purple blood sausage tacos unfinished. Very uncharacteristic... We drank three liters of juice between us. The heat was overwhelming today, coming up in waves of hot air blowing at us. Like a hair dryer in the face.

The Parque Museo De La Venta 40peseos, is definately worth a stop, not only for the needed ass break and to stretch the legs, but there are many huge Olmec heads and the shady outdoor setting is a great relief. Their is free coat check room - helmet, tank bag check room.... it is also a zoo, so that is a warning for those who cant see jaguars and monkeys with poor habitat. you can see signs for it on the non elevated highway.







You can feel the difference as soon as you get to Chiapas. There are fewer vehicles and less trash on the road. Greener forest, more rubber boots and machetes. We got stopped for the first time at a military checkpoint. It was very quick. Where are you going, Where are you from, What is in the boxes- clothes. yes clothes, have a good day.









Palenque
maya bell tree house
We stayed at Maya Bell, very close to the Palenque ruins. It is nice there. pool, camping, good restaurant with pesto past, which i indulged in two nights in a row. We stayed in a little tree house. Palenque ruins was hot and busy but wonderful. Howler monkies like crazy - which steve is still trying to embrace after our ghostly night camping on top of a ruin in Tikal Guatemala 9 years ago. They sound so cool! took a day of and enjoyed Palenque and its great museum.

To Bonempak Ruins, about 100 miles. 3.75 hours. Bonempak is an isolated ruin in the Lacanja Maya area. They were never conquered by the Spanish and have very strong cultural traits and distinct clothing and an interesting sounding language. The road was in good condition but had no shoulder. There was very little traffic. Lots of palapa houses with vertical plant material walls. Chicken for breakfast again, and thats when were lucky. There are few gas stations and gas is sold out of wooden stands in jugs. Fewer places to eat.
Our water purifier - a pretty well used Steri Pen broke so we bought our first water bottle today.
I very much cant stand adding to the garbage problem of this country. bummer.

The ruins have very well preserved painting that are made out of lime and squashed bugs. Bright blue and red and yellow. very cool. Bonempak cost 42peseos but you have to pay 70 pesos to ride the last 9k even if you have your own transport.
Defenitely go to the very top and head back into the jungle on the right side. The steps just keep going up and it is so eiry- in a great way. The trees are growing out of the unearthed ruins. it just goes on and one and no one is there.

Also found the worlds greatest swimming hole with a rope swing over a water fall. Yes! We watch a few local boys play for a while and went after it once steve decided his 6'5" figure could take what the 4' tall boys were playing on. Deep fresh water gives me the creeps, so i had to get used to that for a while. So refreshing. So pretty. So many waterfalls.






metal pipe bridge

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